Idaho’s Teton Ridge Ranch is a must-visit for those hoping to indulge in the new glamour-camping trend.

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The antique Native American drum was unusual, but I didn’t give it a second glance. After all, it fit the rustic, upscale western décor of my room at Teton Ridge Ranch and went well with the exposed wood, cowboy art and striped Pendleton-wool blanket covering the bed. It was not until the next morning that I discovered the drum could be as practical as it was artful.

The day we checked in, my wife and I had a late breakfast in the main lodge, ordering our usual hot drinks — black coffee for me, English breakfast tea for the missus. We had done this in many hotels over the years. But Teton Ridge Ranch is not a hotel, not by any stretch, and when I awoke the following morning, I discovered that the Indian drum does double duty as a platter for pre-breakfast drinks delivered to guests in their rooms. We had never ordered or been asked, but to my surprise, the drum top was set with one black coffee and one English breakfast tea — a welcome start to the day, and clear evidence that somebody was quietly paying very close attention to our satisfaction and preferences, a lesson we would learn again in the days to come. The ranch — with its 4,000 acres of carefully tended wilderness, stables, trout ponds and trails in Southeastern Idaho — is perhaps the most intimate example of the hot travel-industry trend known as “glamping” for its combination of the glamour and camping aesthetics. The American West has always had its share of luxury guest ranches, but this new generation moves the focus from horses to hospitality, with more activities, better accommodations and gourmet cuisine, appealing even to those who never ride. The trend appeals equally to families and romantic couples, but it does favor one group: those with private jets.

The charm of these wilderness retreats comes from their remoteness, but by definition, this makes them hard to get to — at least commercially. Getting from a scheduled flight to Teton Ridge Ranch requires a lengthy drive over high mountain passes from neighboring Wyoming. But fly in on your own, and you can land at the private airport in Driggs, Idaho (KDIJ), and be saddling your horse — or getting a massage — 15 minutes later. Two other prime glamper examples are Montana’s Resort at Paws Up and Canada’s Clayoquot Wilderness Resorts, both highly acclaimed and both immense, with more than one self-contained wilderness “village.” Teton Ridge shrinks the deluxe-wilderness concept from hundreds or dozens of guests to a lucky handful.

In that sense, Teton Ridge feels like a billionaire’s ranch retreat. Likewise, the staffers bear little resemblance to typical luxury-hotel employees, looking and acting more like some Microsoft founder’s staff — maybe because that’s exactly what they are. That billionaire is Paul Allen, Bill Gates’s original partner, the one who also owns the NFL’s Seattle Seahawks and the NBA’s Portland Trailblazers and is the fifth richest man in America. Allen bought the ranch in 1993, when it was a bit more modest, and has assembled adjacent parcels ever since, enlarging it to its current acreage. He initially rented it to friends, and friends of friends, about 10 years ago, then rented it for corporate retreats, finally going public about five years ago — if you can call a resort with just seven rooms public. Allen still uses the property as a vacation home, and while security concerns prohibit staff from discussing his travels, his personal jet is stationed at Driggs-Reed Memorial airport.

Much of Teton Ridge’s appeal wafts through during breakfast, beginning with the cuisine, which reflects the chef’s habit of gussying up traditional dishes with local flair. Thus your eggs Benedict are topped with fresh Idaho salmon and cream rather than ham and hollandaise, while muffins come bursting with mountain berries.

The dining room, meanwhile, overlooks a huge meadow, showcasing the ranch’s charms. Over bacon and eggs, we experienced the first of many wildlife sightings, as a mother and baby elk, grazing just outside, enjoyed their own breakfast. Moose, deer, bears, foxes and birds also make regular guest appearances throughout the property. Each morning, one of Teton Ridge’s expert wilderness guides joined us at the breakfast table to discuss our plans for the day. While happy to make suggestions, staffers never forget that the plans are yours, not theirs. There are few scheduled activities, and no tour lengths. Each day is customized, so if you want to try horseback riding and think a 40-minute trail would suit you, 40 minutes it is. The guides are as available or unavailable as you prefer, and you often don’t need them, since the property is laid out like a national park, with well-marked trails, frequent signage and printed maps. Whether you’re seeking a strenuous hike, a prime fishing or just a picnic, staff will point you in the right direction, accompany you, meet you halfway or pick you up at the trail head.

Similarly, all meals, drinks, guide services and activities — including shooting, riding, fishing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and skating — are included in the rates, which never climb above $700 per room per night. And forget the mini-bar: A help-yourself fridge is packed with beer, wine, champagne, juice and soft drinks — a sort of bottomless cookie jar for grownups.

Discerning palates, meanwhile, will not be disappointed. After being summoned to dinner each evening by an old-fashioned cast-iron triangle, we arrived in the Great Room, where we were startled at first to find tables set in the manner of an elegant five-star eatery. At the same time, the dining operation is small enough that, like each guest’s daily schedule, the principally Western menu (think lots of fresh salmon and game) can be customized to address any diet, allergy or satiate any craving. The wood-and-glass lodge contains most of the accommodations, plus a game room with billiards, an entertainment room with a flat-screen TV, a computer room and the main common area in front of the fireplace, which plays host to pre-dinner festivities. Upstairs are five large rooms, each laid out like a large master suite, with a wood-burning stove, bedroom, sitting area and enormous bathroom with a large soaking tub and separate walk-in shower/steam room. The property’s other accommodations can be found in the Aspen Lodge, a freestanding cottage containing two units that can be rented separately or together — perfect for families or couples. Larger groups take the whole lodge or even the entire ranch for reunions, anniversaries or very special birthdays.

When it came time to go, parting Teton Ridge Ranch was the only true hardship we experienced. As our plane touched down back East, we experienced a shocking reentry into the fast-paced real world beyond Teton Ridge’s cloistered acreage. That was when the lesson really hit home: If you want to escape stress and live well, visit a luxe Wild West spread. And if you don’t have your own, just rent Paul’s.

Summer rates: $550–$2,940 (for the whole lodge). 800-926-3579; tetonridge.com

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