Come see where lush natural landscape and clear Caribbean waters live in harmony with world-renowned spas and golf courses.
Come see where lush natural landscape and clear Caribbean waters live in harmony with world-renowned spas and golf courses. Tipping your wings over the Caribbean to Riviera Maya, you see an expanse of nearly transparent sea that gives way to the Yucatán peninsula, a mass of flat limestone, covered in thick mangrove jungles and punctuated by water-filled caves. The ancient Mayans believed these caves, or cenotes, held spiritual power. In an area so rich in natural beauty, fascinating culture, and modern luxury, I find this easy to believe.
Riviera Maya includes 80 miles of coastline stretching south from Cancún on the eastern edge of the Yucatán. Flying your plane or chartering one into the Cancún airport provides the best access to the region, although the new airport scheduled to open in a few years in Tulum, at the other end of Riviera Maya, promises an even closer trip to sites on the southernmost end of the peninsula. The area is part of Quintana Roo, the youngest state in Mexico and the fastest growing area in Latin America, and luckily the leaders and developers in this region are forward-thinkers who have established tough restrictions on land development. For instance, new properties can develop only 15 percent of their land, leaving 85 percent untouched. Planners have also taken steps to guide new construction in Playa del Carmen (the locals just call it Playa), the proverbial capital of Riviera Maya, where the population has doubled in the past five years. This sandy-feet kind of town became a haven for hippies in the 1970s and ’80s, and it still maintains a relaxed vibe. City planners recently have realized that with growth inevitably comes a change in attitude, so they’re making strides to guide the development in a manner that appeals to upscale travelers who are happy with Playa’s penchant for respite and true Mexican culture.
Where To Stay Luxury is the word of choice for the Riviera Maya. The coastline here has been splashed delicately with upscale accommodations of all kinds from larger all-inclusive resorts to small boutique hotels in Playa. Paraiso de la Bonita (Paradise of the Beautiful) stands out. This boutique resort offers the best of the region—stunning architecture, culinary masterpieces, a fantastic spa, impeccable service on land and water (the resort has its own fleet), and access to the region’s natural and archaeological wonders and most famous golf courses. A Paraiso staff member gladly picks you up at the Cancún airport’s private terminal, about 20 minutes away, in a white Lincoln Navigator stocked with chilled towels, ice water, and your own predetermined choice of music. The resort also has its own helipad on-site for those inclined to fly in on their own helicopter or one chartered in Cancún.
When I arrived at Paraiso the sun had already set, and a full moon was rising. A slow five-minute drive off the main road to the resort led me through a mangrove forest—low-lying, interminably tropical, and perfect for setting the mood. The rich color palette of this hotel struck me instantly. Seeped strongly in the earthy tones of Mayan culture, it welcomes broad cultural influences with flashes of bright color inspired by the Mediterranean, India, Africa, and China. I found the most impressive vision though just off the entrance, where the moon glowed onto Paraiso’s pools of water, which extend seamlessly into the expansive Caribbean, midnight blue and tranquil. I achieved inner calm instantly. Each of the 90 suites at Paraiso offers equivalent views of the sea as well as a private terrace (some with plunge pools) and an individual decor inspired by the owners’ world travels.
Where To Play There’s so much to do here that you’d be remiss to spend too much time indoors. From the beach guests can board the resort’s private 50-foot catamaran, La Bonita, which is available for private day or overnight cruises, moonlight dinners, and cocktail parties. The two new yachts that joined La Bonita in December 2006 are available for multiday stays as well. Paraiso’s world-renowned concierge, Violeta Manon, will arrange boating excursions for guests looking to catch large local fish such as marlin, wahoo, tuna, mackerel, snapper, and grouper. For those more interested in getting under the water rather than being on it, the world’s second largest coral reef lies just beyond Paraiso’s beach. Scuba trips there provide a fish-eye view of the Caribbean.
Although Paraiso does not have its own golf course, it’s within a few miles from undoubtedly the best courses in Mexico and maybe Latin America. Violeta Manon will hook golfers up with rounds at Palaycar, designed by Robert Von Hagge, or the new El Cameleon at Mayakoba, designed by Greg Norman. In February 2007 El Cameleon—which has a natural cenote on the first hole—will host the first-ever PGA tour on Mexican soil.
After a morning of boating or golfing, a trip to Paraiso’s spa is in order. Spas play a central role in the Riviera Maya’s luxury lifestyle. Try a traditional therapy using natural ingredients, such as the Cold Marine Facial or the Seaweed Body Treatment. The full-scale Paraiso facility likely offers any treatment you could imagine.
From Riviera Maya it’s only a short, well-worth-it trip to Playa del Carmen. A late-afternoon excursion to Playa for shopping and dinner could turn into a much later night of drinks and lively conversation with locals and other travelers. The city feels rather European—a little edgy but largely relaxed with a strong Italian influence. Visit the Glass Bar for a favoloso dinner, and then walk across the street to the new Italian-owned Da Vino wine bar, where the sommelier will help you select a sip from the list of more than 100 wines. Or if it’s late and you need a pick-me-up to keep up with the locals, as I did, try waking up with an espresso. The sommelier suggests a side of grappa—the lively combination had me up and moving well past my bedtime.
For a taste of truly local cuisine, dine at Yaxche (pronounced yosh-CHAY, it means the “Tree of Heaven” in Mayan), and try specialties like the cream of chaya soup or the tamales wrapped in banana leaves. Hanging at this Mayan-inspired open-air restaurant and bar gives you a great picture of Playa—and the feeling of being truly immersed in the Riviera Maya.
What could impart a truer sense of this place than tasting ancient Mayan cuisine on the edge of Yucatán? Perhaps a dip below the limestone into a cenote or a sip of sweet tequila would top off the experience. Whatever your fancy, a washing in the waters of Riviera Maya satiates the spirit’s thirst indeed. —Kelly Margaret Smith